Highligths from Paris Fashion Week SS17

Paris Fashion Week said au revoir on Wednesday and it was a particularly thrilling week with several debuts in some of the most famous fashion houses. ‘80s glam, fuchsia and mini bags were some of the most seen trends on the catwalks. Louis Vuitton presented a contemporary collection with a ‘80s vibe. The show opened with three bias-cut dresses with cut-outs around the waists and black ribbon fastenings. Two of the dresses were rendered in gray and brown and the other one in a metallic fabric. Skirt suits and pantsuits were given a spin and appeared with  deconstructed details, wide shoulders, slits and zips, inspired by the movie Rive Droite, Rive Gauche, about a very important law firm.  The ‘80s nods were seen in the suits, shimmering fabrics like lurex, cobalt pieces and accessories such as turbans.  The looks that featured pants and a dress with black fastenings and sheer tops with a grid pattern felt notably ultramodern and evidenced great technique.   Accessories comprised pointed-toe midi boots in array of colors like black, red, silver and gold. There were also pointed pumps with cross straps.   The brand debuted a new bag, the Petite Malle phone case, which comes with a key ring attachment and it will certain become a hit. Balmain showed a powerful and glamorous collection amplified by the use of bright colors. This time the Olivier Rousteng, decides to replace his very sexy silhouettes for more fluid and looser shapes. Still, the sexiness was still present and visible in pieces featuring thigh-high slits and cut-outs.  The majority of the garments are aimed to the spotlight. Although, there were some great pieces for the day too, like the orange suede jacket with utility pockets modeled by Alessandra Ambrosio,  the green snakeskin jacket and matching skirt sported by Isabeli Fontana, a snakeskin caftan with contrasting black details, a black suede jacket with cut-out details on the shoulders and a matching belt comprising cross straps.   The vertical stripes, one the house trademarks were present and seen on a knitted top and metallic dresses. The striped metallic dress modeled by Kate Grigorieva was absolutely stunning. The show closed with several dresses in gold and silver that had a 80s vibe.  The looks were complemented with high-heel platform sandals. Olivier Rousteng is doing a great job by bringing grown-up glamour back.  Lanvin showcased a super elegant collection that mixed feminine and masculine elements. Bouchra Jarrar, in her first collection for the house reinterprets the Maison’s codes and delivers refined and luxurious elegance that play with opposites.  The show opened with a riff on the white suit worn with a long striped chemesier. There were plenty of marvelous pieces: the cropped jacket embellished with feathers paired with a black sheer midi skirt featuring buckles on the side sported by Taylor Hill; a white vest with feathers teamed up with a long sheer skirt modeled by Julia Nobis; the striped mini dress paired with a sleeveless tuxedo; a floral mini dress paired with a matching bomber jacket; the last look on Karlie Kloss, a double-breasted blazer paired with a white blouse and a long sheer skirt. Details like floral brooches and fringed metallic necklaces accentuated the elegance of the collection. The looks were accessorized with flat sandals, jays embellished sliders and high heel sandals. Bags came in small and medium sizes to be carried on the wrist. Sophisticated elegance that mixes classic and modern items.  Carven presented a joyous collection galvanized by the idea of a “Madame Carven’s imaginary heiress”. The range included miniskirts, slim cargo pants featuring utility pockets and buckles, scarf-print skirts and sheer colorblocking tops and floral skirts and dresses. An A-line dress in lavender and with buckles on the front was very sweet and alluring. Style tricks like skirts over pants, a plastic miniskirt over a floral mini dress and pieces of cloth similar to a veil felt undeniably fresh and modern. Many pieces were embroidered with the C logo of the house. And some of the house staples like stripes and laced featured in the collection. Mostly looks were accessorized with open-toe leather shoes in black and white, in snakeskin and also with the C logo which are hard to resist. Many models displayed necklaces resembling belts which gave the looks a cool edge.    Fashionable and youthful clothes that deserve a space in real closets. Saint Laurent showed an almost black collection loaded with sex appeal. Nods to ‘80s nightclubbing were visible throughout the range, mainly in voluminous sleeves, one-shoulder tops and dresses and gold lame. Other pieces comprised reinterpretations of the famous Yves Saint Laurent tuxedo, like the sleeveless tuxedo paired with a long skirt featuring a slit; cigarette pants, lots of leather in form of tops, miniskirts, dresses, pants and jackets; jeans and velvet jackets.  The looks were accessorized with pumps, some featuring a strap, biker boots and brogues paired with socks. Youth, sex, leather, velvet and smart tailoring were the key elements of Anthony Vaccarello’ s  work which share similar characteristics with his predecessor, Hedi Slimane who mastered the rock’n’roll aesthetic. The Italian-Belgian designer made a fierce start by mixing feminine sensuous elements with masculine silhouettes.  Kenzo presented a strong and heterogeneous collection with    nods to the legendary nightclub Studio 54 and utilitarian gear. The show opened with a series of utilitarian pieces like the white oversize parka modeled by Edie Campbell, skirts with utility pockets and zips, denim combos and garments with a camouflage print. The red and black trench coat with contrasting lapels and the jumpsuits in nylon had a ‘80s vibe. The duo collaborated with the artist Antonio Lopez and several Polaroids of famous models like Jerry hall and Pat Cleveland featured on tops and dresses. The PVC pants with strings on the bottom, the monochrome print dress with puff sleeves, the lame top embellished with sequins on the shoulders and matching skirt  and graphited with a with a blue and pink pattern were the trophy pieces. The show closed with a series of slip dresses strewn in paillettes.  The spiral-heeled sandals and the shiny chainmail bags added a cool touch to the ensembles. Hip and modern clothes that will be coveted by many gals.  Valentino showed a superb collection inspired by the Renaissance colors and The Garden of Earthy Delights. As always big part of the range was dedicated to evening wear. Dresses with elongated sleeves, mostly of them red carpet winners: the long pink pleated dress; the long black sheer dress modeled by Lexi Boling; the long pink dress with ruffles and fanned sleeves. Piccioli collaborated with Zandra Rhodes and together they reinterpreted the work of the Bosch painter, whose landscape prints appeared on skirts and dresses. There were also great offerings for the day like the pink velvet devore coat, the white blouse paired with velvet pants and the fuchsia mac. The looks were accessorized with mini bags with a chain strap and flat sandals with velvet ribbons. It is always admirable the craftsmanship and attention to detail put on the clothes. This was Pierpaolo Piccioli‘s first solo collection and it’s fair to say: well done. Alexander McQueen presented an enthralling collection inspired by the Shetland Islands. The show opened with two maxi dresses made of Shetland lace, the first one topped down with a leather bralet adorned with silver studs and the second one paired with an embellished leather jacket.  Then came tartan suiting comprising cropped pants, mini kilts and sharp tailored blazers, a clear nod to Savile Row. There were also Fair Isle deconstructed jumpers and floral prairie dresses. Many dresses were teamed up with leather bralets which toughened up the romanticism of the pieces. Some looks included all black ensembles featuring floral embroidery and panels of lace. The show closed with embroidered gowns, one in black, two embellished with silver sequins and shredded trains.  Chunky leather boots covered with studs complemented all the looks. The amount of handwork put in the collection was pretty impressive. Clothes with an exquisite beauty that honor British tradition. As always Paris Fashion Week had innumerous celebrities attending the shows. As always PFW had innumerous celebrities attending the shows. Denim jackets, checks and black were favorites among the fashion pack.

Front Row

Street Style


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