Highlights from Paris Fashion Week AW16

Paris Fashion Week the last leg of the fashion tour wrapped on Wednesday and is always the most anticipated fashion week with its legendary fashion houses. Irregular hems, quilting and the trench coat were some of the most seen trend on the runways. Chanel presented an amazing collection with the house’s classics updated. Karl played with layers and proportions and the tweed suits had frayed deconstructed edges. The show opened with a series of looks in pink tweed and denim separates. There were plenty of marvelous pieces: the pale pink leather hoodie trimmed with black sported by Kendall Jenner; the metallic quilted coat with embellished cuffs and scarf on Gigi Hadid; knits with metal rivets; the Choupette print  (Karl’s cat) spotted on lurex tops and on a skirt; the white dresses with leather detailing; the layers of pearl necklaces. Almost every look was paired with riding boots and topped off with bowler hats.  Karl Lagerfeld masterfully balances the brand’s heritage with newness. Louis Vuitton showed a magnificent collection that merged sporty influences and sharp tailoring.  The sports theme was seen in color-blocked stretchy knit tops and tube dresses and mohair jumpers with racing stripes up and down the arms. Pants were abundant, mostly in leather and track pants with contrast piping.  There were also sultry pieces like the white silk dress and a black dress both topped by leather harnesses. Zip-front vests and jackets had interesting and original silhouettes. Nicolas Ghesquière also looked at the label’s heritage with scarf dresses printed with ropes and chains. Accessories included lace-up combat boots and a wide range of bags: leopard print backpacks and trunks, monogram holdalls and doctor bags. The show ended with a series of sequin dresses. Nicolas wisely combines wearability with artistry. Saint Laurent showcased a glamorous collection that paid homage to the 80s. Emphasis on power dressing: one-shoulder mini-dresses cinched by wide belts to accentuate the voluminous shoulders; a tuxedo paired with a polka-dot shirt with Pierrot collar; sculpted leather dresses; puffball skirts paired with leather jackets daubed with glittery stars; sequined catsuits; colorful fur coats in bold shapes. Accessories included pointed stiletto pumps, sheer hosiery, tubular metal chokers, metal cuffs and heart-shaped mini shoulder bags. Show-stopping designs that used couture techniques. Balmain presented a collection with high-octane sex appeal twisted by an unexpected color palette. The tones icy grey, pale pink and beige added novelty and vigorousness to the range. Olivier Rousteng focused on an hourglass silhouette and almost every look was cinched at the waist, either with a corset or a wide metallic belt.  Sheer body stocking dresses, mini crinoline skirts, striped body suits, mini-dresses embroidered with pearls, crystals and fringes all marched down the catwalk on the bodies of the most famous supermodels.  The looks in pastels tones were the ones which stood out the most, as well as the last look sported by Kendall Jenner: a black lace body-hugging dress. Footwear included suede thigh-high boots and brass buckled high heels. Lavish clothes made for the limelight.  Céline showed and elegant and understated collection. The long tunics and wide-leg trousers which became the brand’s signatures were perfected through new textures and fabrics. Mannish shirting with elongated collars and longer cuffs, satin and silk dresses with ruching and knotting, smart utility coats were also part of the range. Most of the clothes was rendered in neutral tones, blue and black.  Accessories comprised flat sandals with leather straps, trompe l’oeil crystal belts and bags that came tied around model’s waists. All in all, Phoebe Philo stayed true to the Céline aesthetic and delivered covetable and wearable clothes.  Givenchy presented a clever collection that mixed mysticism and streetwear. Psychedelic music and the Egyptian culture were sources of inspiration. Mandalas decorated blouses and dresses with exposed backs and the Exe of Horus and other Egyptian motifs appeared on print frocks. Riccardo Tisci also delved into military tailoring and band jackets appeared updated in a myriad of colors paired with shorts.  Leopard and python also featured on dresses and coats. Several looks comprised all black ensembles like: a military coat, bomber jackets, dresses with tiers and fur trimming. Footwear included thig-high boots with a gold cone heel and python boots. Elegant blend of different genres and cultures. Kenzo presented a fun and eclectic collection with some references to Sailor Moon – a cult Japanese manga series from the 90s.   The adorable wardrobe from the character came in the form of schoolgirl uniforms, namely, blouses with puffed sleeves and A-line leather mini-skirts. Florals, tiger print, grid checks and stripes reinforced the kookiness and distinct style that made Kenzo so sui generis. For Fall, the Kenzo girl also wears denim suits, pleated flowing dresses, velvet cigarette pants and knit combos. Outerwear comprised envelope coats and short jackets.  Accessories included zebra print boots and pumps, leather boots and small rectangular bags. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon sartorial partnership continues fresh and frisky. Valentino showed a very pretty collection inspired by ballet and dance movies. The ballet references manifested in tutu skirts paired with turtlenecks, footless tights, ballet flats and ribbons tied around the model’s waists to   emulate the bands ballerinas wear. The velvet dresses in marigold, green and taupe were really marvelous. The range also comprise tough outerwear like military-style coats, a trench coat in black leather and a burgundy patent leather coat. Accessories included combat boots, velvet ballroom sandals, quilted handbags with chain straps and silver layers of necklaces. The eveningwear as always was astonishing and closed the show with a series of nude gowns with smatterings of Swarovski crystals.  Beautiful and magic clothes with remarkable workmanship.  As always Paris Fashion Week attracted a huge number of celebrities. Black, green and the cowboy boots by Céline were favorites amongst the fashion pack.

Front Row

Street Style


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